In this Phase you construct the CW Monitor. I am not active in CW now, but someday I want to brush up my CW skills, so it is nice the G59 includes this in the kit.
It is a pretty straight forward part of the kit and there isn’t anything special about its construction. It should be an easy step. Unless you are Allen.
I installed the resistors, capacitors and connectors without a problem. Then I installed the IC’s. That’s when I made the first mistake. It was late, I was tired, yada, yada yada. I put the 741 IC’s in the wrong spots. Spent a half hour getting them back off the board. I broke a couple of pins in each one, but at least I didn’t lift any pads up. Long story short, I was able to get them soldered back into the correct places. I had to solder the broken pins from the top, but they all seemed fine.
Last step was to make a couple of cables. I was starting to dread making these, but I think I finally have a good system setup. Bruce KF1Z told me he would just crimp the end of them to the wire and solder them. I started to use my Helping Magnifier to hold them in place and solder them. Then I would bend the crimps and push them into the holders, no crimping tool required.
So on to testing the CW Monitor. I did as the website instructed and I got a tone, but it was more like a buzz. I did a little research on the mailing list and found a message that said to use a jumper in KS1M. Tried that and now I got at least a somewhat decent CW tone. I researched the list further and found it was reccomended that you use a 2.8k resistor instead of the jumber. I had a 2.7k 1/8 watt resistor so I tried that and was satisified with the results.
Then I tried to adjust the volume of the tone. You are supposed to adjust R15M to set the volume. I tried that but after several turns it didn’t seem to make much of a difference. I posted a message on the Yahoo List, but before anyone responded, I backed R15M way out and then I could hear a change in the volume level. apparently I turned it in too far and I was afraid to back it out too far, but that is what did the trick.
Then I went on to check the Iambic Keyer. The trick here is you have to have GDSR set to CW and you have to have clicked on the start button. I did that and now I have nice dits and dashes. I don’t have a keyer, so I just used a stereo audio cable and shorted the ends to test it out.
Next on to Phase 9 the Transmitter.